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  Clutch Actuator Pin Adjustment
ducatidesigns wrote:

Adjusting the little plunger screw in the lever to get more stroke, preventing fluid return to the reservoir, can wreck things as well.

RoderickGI wrote:

The blue arrow shows where the Clutch Actuator Pin is located.

Click for larger image.

Scrambles wrote:


I recently installed a CRG clutch lever, and had to adjust that pin. Can you describe the right way to adjust it to avoid what you describe above?

ducatidesigns wrote:

Conservatively is probably the best advice. Turning it in moves the engagement point out, lifting the clutch pressure plate higher. I've had success screwing it in one turn or less (after picking out that crusty gunk Ducati seals it with) without a problem, and that adds quite a bit of lift to the clutch. If you go too far, the master piston can block the fluid return port when you release the clutch. Without a return path, fluid pressure in the line will build up, especially when the fluid and air in the circuit get hot. This can cause the clutch to slip and increase wear on the pushrod, throwout bearing and slave cylinder. Mild slipping that you don't necessarily notice will wear out your clutch quickly.

One way to tell its working right is to remove the reservoir cap and look carefully for return flow (a little squirt near the piston) when you slowly release the lever. Wear glasses, in case you let it go too fast!

Note that the adjuster's position is secured by not only the gunky glue covering the screwdriver slot, but also by a tiny allen set screw in the bottom of the pivot barrel. You need to loosen this set screw a few turns before you try to adjust the plunger adjuster.

Hope that helps!


Scrambles wrote:

Thanks Paul. So, it seems as long as there is some play left it should be OK, but the key is whether or not the fluid is returning (the squirt). Is that right?

ducatidesigns wrote:

Exactly. You don't want constant pressure on the rod to disengage the clutch, so you want the fluid to return to the reservoir quickly. I ship a lot of 30mm MPL slave cylinders, and it sometimes takes 1/2 turn or so (from factory setting) to get good disengagement, never more. Be sure to bleed things well before you start; any air in the system just compounds problems.


pg DD